ICONPHOTO

We joined Australian National University PhD candidate Jess Williams (conducting research on the impacts of ecotourism) in the Veun Sai Siem Pang National Park in northern Cambodia. Staying at the Ranger Station in the Park we enjoyed the wonderful hospitality of the Conservation International researchers and guides and the local people who provided insights into their lives and their interaction with the forest and its many inhabitants. Providing a fascinating background to our time spent with the amazing little family of Northern Yellow-Cheeked Gibbons. An amazing place, an amazing experience and well worthy of a visit when in Cambodia. Also check out our video at: https://youtu.be/FqtjVVPxBOc

We began our nine-day assault on the Overland Track in late April 2019. Although still in booking season, we knew the weather was turning cooler and the likelihood of rain and snow higher. But having walked many trails around the world and having spoken to others we thought it would be well within our capabilities. Turns out we would, of course, finish, but the track took its toll. Although there is only moderate altitude to deal with, and mostly all on the first day and “it’s all downhill from there…” the weather and track conditions and a big pack filled for a nine day walk did conspire to test us. Winds on days one to three were at times gale force, gusting to 100km/h. Add in snow and rain on those days on exposed plains and ridges and just standing up and finding your way from one track marker pole to the next, was a constant challenge. And with so much rain and deep snow melting quickly, the track was rarely in the form of a track and much more akin to a creek, bog or waterfall. With heavy packs and relying on our poles to stay upright, we were fixated for much of the time on our feet and just trying to stay upright (something we failed to do on many occasions on multiple days). Scenery was simply non-existent due to cloud, rain and snow and survival from hut to hut was the aim of the game for much of the time, sadly making the track about the destination and not the journey. Our planned extra day at Pelion was a life saver, waking to a blue sky for the first time in three days we re-charged our bodies and souls by taking some time to explore the beautiful Pelion plains. And the next day, the only other day we saw blue sky, we did thoroughly enjoy a stroll from Pelion Gap around Mt Doris to the foot of the final climb on Mt Ossa. Our planned extra day in Pine Valley was spent in the warm, comfortable but sadly mice infested hut, drying clothes and drinking coffee while the rain and wind washed away our hopes of climbing either the Acropolis or the Labyrinth. It would be a stretch to say with the conditions we endured that our Overland Track experience was enjoyable. There was much suffering and “adventure” is probably the best term I could find. We did certainly have good moments and will look back on successfully finding our way through the challenges and adversities of the trail with a sense of achievement. I am grateful for the very good gear we have, for some good planning and for the endurance and patience of my lovely wife who always seemed to find a way to put a positive spin on a less than good situation.